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| How do I vacuum/service my pool? |
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Cleaning your pool is a must to ensure your comfort and protect your equipment. Cleaning your pool is quite simple if you have the right tools and if the pool is not surrounded by trees or bushes that keep filling it with leaves and debris. Therefore, the tools you need are:
Pole
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Vacuum head
(vinyl)
(gunite) |
Vacuum Hose
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Brush
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Skimmer Net
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Since you have all of these tools you are ready to start cleaning you pool. First, connect the pole and the hose to vacuum head. Second, submerge the vacuum head (already attached to pole and hose) and with filter running hold the free end of the hose in front of the return wall fitting to purge the hose of any air and fill with water. When you no longer see any air bubbles coming from the vacuum head the hose is primed. Third, try to keep the hose underwater to maintain prime and connect it to the skimmer (vacuum line, if you have one). The hose can fit through the front of the skimmer opening, where you can slip onto skim-vac plate or insert into suction opening on the bottom of the skimmer. You are ready to vacuum! Move the vacuum head slowly and gently to thoroughly clean your pool and not stir up debris. (NOTE: If you fill that there is not enough suction you may close main drain and the skimmer you are not using. You can do this by closing the valves located by the system. Do not forget to open them once you finish). If while vacuuming the suction decrease check the skimmer and pump basket and empty if necessary. If the basket is clean and suction is still diminished, the filter may need to be backwashed or cleaned. (See how to clean my filter). When you finish with vacuuming all debris, simply pull the vacuum head out of the water and quickly disconnect the hose from your skimmer or vacuum side. Next, attach the brash to the pole and brush all walls and steps of the pool. Skim all leaves that remain on the surface. If you are experiencing difficulty, please feel free to call us! 631 283-4040
| What is routine maintenance? |
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Keeping you pool physically clean is as important as the regular maintenance. During swimming season, thoroughly clean your pool at least once a weak. In addition you should:
- run the system 8-12 hours per day (We recommend 10 hours min.)
- maintain proper water level - 2/3 on skimmer opening
- skim pool surface daily
- clean skimmer basket twice a week
- keep deck area clean near the pool
- vacuum pool weekly (See how to vacuum my pool)
- test you water at least once a week
- backwash system once a week (See how to clean my filter)
| How to clean/backwash my filter? |
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There are three types of filters:
Sand Filter
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Diatomaceous Earth (DE) filters
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Cartridge filters
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- Sand filters
- Diatomaceous Earth (DE) filters
- Cartridge filters
Check what the type of your filter is and follow the instructions.
Sand filter
- Turn off your pump motor
- Press down on valve handle, rotate valve from FILTER to BACKWASH position. (NOTE: Open valve on backwash pipe if you have one). Turn on the pump. Run for 1.5 - 2.5 minutes or until water runs clear in the side glass.
- Turn off pump motor and move multiport valve handle from BACKWASH to RINSE position. Run on rinse for 20 - 40 seconds.
- Turn off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to FILTER position
- Turn on pump motor (NOTE: DO NOT forget to close the valve on backwash pipe if you have one)
DE filters
- Turn off your pump motor
- Press down on valve handle, rotate valve from FILTER to BACKWASH position. (NOTE: Open valve on backwash pipe if you have one). Turn on the pump. Run for 1.5 - 2.5 minutes or until water runs clear in the side glass.
- Turn off pump motor and move multiport valve handle from BACKWASH to RINSE position. Run on rinse for 20 - 40 seconds.
- Turn off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to FILTER position
- Turn on pump motor (NOTE: DO NOT forget to close the valve on backwash pipe if you have one.)
- Add 1 lb D.E. powder per 10 sq ft of filter area. Look on filter tank.
Cartridge filters How to backwash cartridge filters? The answer is: there is no backwash valve on a cartridge filter because today's pool filter cartridges aren't built for backwards flow. Instead:
- Turn off you pump motor
- Open the air relieve valve ( usually on the top of the filter)
- Unscrew all clamp knobs and remove the top.
- Take the cartridge elements and hose them down with water or soak in Trisodium-phosphate or soap.
- Put the elements back. Install the clamp knobs.
- Turn on your pump
NOTE: If the elements are very dirty, the system will not run properly. Please contact us for replacement cartridge elements.
| How do I test my water? |
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You don't have to be a chemist to keep your pool sparkling clean. To keep things simple, we recommend you to use a test strips method. It is the easiest method for pool and spa water testing, also fast and simple to use because they eliminate the need to measure samples and count drops. We will advice you to use "Aquachek Silver". It is good for seven basic testing - Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, Total Hardness, Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer). But, how do I test my water? It is simple, dip a test strip in your pool water and then compare the color of pads on the strip to the color comparator. In addition, for best result follow the directions that come with the kit. There have been many cases where a user inadvertently used the directions that came with another manufacturer's strips or used directions from an older kit. Most inaccurate test results occur when individuals do not follow directions or follow the wrong directions! Test strips are continually improving and becoming more accurate, and you should never assume that the directions on one container are going to apply to another container's strips. In addition, not all manufacturers' test strips are the same, so it is essential to read and follow the directions on each container. Do not forget:
- Store test strips in a low humidity environment at room temperature.
- Keep the cap on tight between uses.
- Keep wet fingers out of the bottle.
- Do not use expired test strips.
| What are the recommended levels? |
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- pH: 7.2 - 7.4
- Chlorine: 1.0 - 3.0 ppm
- Total Alkalinity: 80 - 120 ppm
- Calcium Hardness: 200 - 400 ppm
- Cyanuric Acid: 25 - 50 ppm
- Total Dissolved Solids: 500 - 5000 ppm
| How do I balance my pool/spa water? |
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Water balancing is not such a complicated exercise. Your water is constantly changing, every day, year round. Everything from sun, rain, wind to oils, to dirt, and cosmetics affect you water balance. You will probably not change the water in your pool for many years. That is why, continuous filtration and disinfection removes contaminants which keep the water enjoyable but this is does not balance your water. A pool that is "balanced" has proper levels of pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness. Balance water is that which is neither over or under the standards, and they are:
Total Alkalinity
The ideal range of total alkalinity for pools and spas is between 80 and 120 ppm.
Total alkalinity is the measure of the amount of alkaline buffers (primarily carbonates and bicarbonates) in your water. These alkaline substances buffer the water against sudden changes in pH. Total alkalinity is considered the key to water balance. It is the first parameter you should balance when making routine adjustments to your water. If you neglect to check the total alkalinity in your pool or spa, you may have trouble balancing the pH.
Low Total Alkalinity (TA):
Add Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) - one pound per 1000 gallons will increase the Total Alkalinity by 60ppm (See Water Adjustment). Problems that may accrue with low TA:
- pH fluctuation
- Corrosion
- Low pH
- Eye irritation
- Green water
High Total Alkalinity:
When TA is too high, you can lower it by using muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate (See Water Adjustment). (NOTE: We do not recommend adding acid to vinyl pool, if it is not absolute necessity). Problems that may accrue with high TA:
- Difficult to adjust pH
- Cloudy water
- High pH
PH
The ideal range of pH for pools and spas is between 7.2 to 7.6.
We use pH as an index to express how acidic or basic a solution is. Technically, it is a measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions in the water. A pH greater than 7.0 is basic, and a pH lower than 7.0 is acidic. Your mission is to maintain it slightly basic.
Low pH:
To increase pH you should add sodium carbonate (soda ash). Problems that may accrue with low pH:
- Vinyl liner cracks, wrinkles
- Water etches plaster
- Water corrodes equipment
- Chlorine dissipates rapidly
- Eyes and skin are uncomfortable
High pH:
To decrease pH you can add Sodium bisulfate or Muriatic acid when it gets too high. (See Water Adjustment). Problems that may accrue with high pH:
- Chlorine react slowly
- Scale forms on equipment
- Water is cloudy
- Filter run is too short
- Eye and skin are uncomfortable
- Can contribute to cloudy water
Free Chlorine
The ideal range of free Chlorine for pool is between 1ppm and 3ppm.
Chorine is a sanitizer and has to key functions, to sanitize, which means to kill bacteria and all living organisms, and also oxidize, destroy contaminants and waste. Chlorine is also classified as a disinfectant, meaning that it is capable of killing bacteria, algae and other organic material instantly. All chlorine does the same thing when it is added to the water, regardless of the type of chlorine added. It forms free available chlorine. The more chlorine in the water, the more it can sanitize and oxidize the water. However, if the free chlorine level gets too high, it can make the water uncomfortable for swimmers and may cause some side effects - green hair, bleaching the liner and est. The most common forms used in recreational water are:
- Trichloro-s-triazinetrione (Trichlor)
- Dichloro-s-triazinetrione (Dichlor)
- Sodium Hypochlorite (Liquid Chlorine/Bleach)
- Calcium Hypochlorite (Cal Hypo)
- Lithium Hypochlorite (Lithium Hypo)
Low Free Chlorine
You have to add more Chlorine (See Water Adjustment)
High Free Chlorine
Partly drain and refill with fresh water.
Total Chlorine
Total chlorine is the sum of both combined chlorine and free chlorine. Free chlorine kills bacteria and oxidizing contaminants. When the free chlorine combines with these contaminants, such as oils, swimmer waste and other organic compounds, it becomes combined chlorine, or chloramines. If the total chlorine level is higher than free chlorine, it is obvious that combined chlorine is present. In that case you need to shock or superchlorinate your pool. To shock the pool, you add a free chlorine compound in an extra large dose. (See Water Adjustment)
Calcium Hardness
The ideal level of hardness for your pool or spa water is from 200 - 400 ppm.
Calcium and magnesium are the two primary minerals that make up hardness in water. Like alkalinity and pH, hardness affects the tendency of the water to be corrosive or scale-forming. By maintaining the ideal ranges for hardness and alkalinity, you can keep scale formation to a minimum. Water that is not properly saturated with hardness-water in which the hardness level is too low-will be very corrosive, causing significant damage to metal pipes and fixtures as well as plaster.
Low Calcium Hardness
To raise Calcium hardness add Calcium Chloride (commonly 77%). (See Water Adjustment)
Problems that may occur:
- Etching of plaster
- Aggressive (corrosive) water
- Pitting of surfaces
High Calcium Hardness
Partly drain and refill with fresh water.
Problems that may occur:
- Scale formation
- Filter calcification
- Cloudy water
- Heater inefficiency
- Reduced circulation
- Rough pool surfaces
- Eye irritation
Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer)
The ideal level of Stabilizer for your pool or spa water is from 20ppm to 50ppm.
The sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays will make the chlorine in an outdoor pool dissipate quickly. Cyanuric acid acts as a "stabilizer" that helps chlorine hold up better when exposed to the UV rays. You can think of cyanuric acid as blocking the effect that the sunlight has on breaking down the chlorine. On the other hand, too much cyanuric acid will reduce the beneficial effect of your chlorine, leading to stains or cloudy water. Some chlorine compounds already contain an amount of cyanuric acid, such as Dichlor and Trichlor.
Low Cyanuric Acid
Add Cyanuric acid to raise the level to the ideal. Pools with salt chlorine generation systems need to maintain slightly higher levels.
High Cyanuric Acid
The most common way to lower the level is to drain part of the water and refill with fresh water.
WARNING: APPLY CHEMICALS DIRECTLY TO POOL/SPA WATER, NOT WATER TO CHEMICALS. DO NOT MIX CHEMICALS. ADD CHEMICALS ONE AT A TIME.
Free Chlorine
Free Chlorine Chart - Pools
(Amount Needed to Introduce 1ppm) |
Type of
Chorine |
Pool Volume |
| 5,000 gal. |
10,000 gal. |
15,000 gal. |
25,000 gal. |
30,000 gal. |
| Sodium Hypochlorite |
5.3 oz |
10.5 oz. |
1/2 qt. |
3/4 qt. |
1 qt. |
| Dichlor |
1 oz. |
2 1/4 oz. |
3 1/4 oz. |
5 1/2 oz. |
6 1/2 oz. |
| Calcium Hypochlorite |
1 oz. |
2 oz. |
3 oz. |
5 oz. |
6 oz. |
| Trichlor |
3/4 oz. |
1 1/2 oz. |
2 1/4 oz. |
3 3/4oz. |
4 1/2 oz. |
| Lithium Hypochlorite |
1 oz. |
2 oz. |
4 oz. |
10 oz. |
11 oz. |
Superchlorination
Superchlorination Chart - Pools
(Amount Needed to Introduce 10 ppm) |
Type of
Chorine |
Pool Volume |
| 5,000 gal. |
10,000 gal. |
15,000 gal. |
25,000 gal. |
30,000 gal. |
| Sodium Hypochlorite |
1 3/4 qts. |
3 1/14 qts. |
1 1/4 gal. |
2 gal. |
2.5 gal. |
| Dichlor |
11 oz. |
1 1/3 lbs. |
2 lbs. |
3 1/3 lbs. |
4 lbs. |
| Calcium Hypochlorite |
10 oz. |
1 1/4 lbs. |
2 lbs. |
3 1/4 lbs. |
3 7/8 lbs. |
| Trichlor |
3/4 oz. |
1 1/2 oz. |
2 1/4 oz. |
3 3/4oz. |
4 1/2 oz. |
| Lithium Hypochlorite |
1 1/4lbs. |
2 1/3 lbs. |
3 1/2 lbs. |
6 lbs. |
7 1/4 lbs. |
Total Alkalinity<BR>
Raising Total Alkalinity
With Sodium Bicarbonate (LBS.) |
| Increase in TA in ppm |
5,000 gal. |
10,000 gal. |
15,000 gal. |
25,000 gal. |
30,000 gal. |
| 10 |
0.75 |
1.5 |
2.25 |
3.75 |
4.5 |
| 20 |
1.5 |
3 |
4.5 |
7.5 |
9 |
| 30 |
2.25 |
4.5 |
6.75 |
11.25 |
13.5 |
| 40 |
3 |
6 |
9 |
15 |
18 |
| 50 |
3.75 |
7.5 |
11.25 |
18.75 |
22.5 |
| 60 |
4.5 |
9 |
13.5 |
22.5 |
27 |
Lowering Total Alkalinity
With Dry Acid (Sodium Bisulfate) (LBS.) |
| Decrease in TA in ppm |
5,000 gal. |
10,000 gal. |
15,000 gal. |
25,000 gal. |
30,000 gal. |
| 10 |
0.8 |
1.5 |
2.5 |
4 |
4.8 |
| 20 |
1.6 |
3.1 |
4.75 |
8.1 |
9.7 |
| 30 |
2.4 |
4.7 |
7.5 |
12.2 |
14.6 |
| 40 |
3.2 |
6.3 |
10 |
16.3 |
19.5 |
| 50 |
4 |
7.9 |
12 |
20.4 |
24.4 |
| 60 |
4.8 |
9.5 |
13.25 |
24.5 |
29.3 |
Lowering pH With Murianic Acid
(in oz.) |
| pH |
10,000 gal. |
15,000 gal. |
20,000 gal. |
25,000 gal. |
30,000 gal. |
| 7.6 - 7.8 |
12 |
18 |
24 |
32 |
36 |
| 7.8 - 8.0 |
16 |
24 |
32 |
40 |
48 |
| 8.0 - 8.4 |
24 |
36 |
48 |
60 |
72 |
| over 8.4 |
32 |
48 |
64 |
80 |
96 |
PH
Raising pH With Soda Ash
(in oz.) |
| pH |
10,000 gal. |
15,000 gal. |
20,000 gal. |
25,000 gal. |
30,000 gal. |
| below 6.7 |
16 |
24 |
32 |
40 |
48 |
| 6.6 - 7.0 |
12 |
18 |
24 |
30 |
36 |
| 7.0 - 7.2 |
8 |
12 |
16 |
20 |
24 |
| 7.2 - 7.4 |
6 |
9 |
12 |
15 |
|
Calcium
Raising Water Hardness
With Calcium Chloride (LBS.) |
| Increase ppm |
10,000 gal. |
15,000 gal. |
20,000 gal. |
25,000 gal. |
30,000 gal. |
| 20 |
2.5 |
3.75 |
5 |
6.25 |
7.5 |
| 40 |
5 |
7.5 |
10 |
12.5 |
15 |
| 50 |
6.25 |
9.5 |
12.5 |
15.75 |
20.5 |
| 60 |
7.5 |
11.25 |
15 |
18.75 |
26 |
| 80 |
10 |
15 |
20 |
25 |
30 |
Cyanuric Acid
Raising Cyanuric Acid
With Cyanuric Acid (LBS.) |
| Increase ppm |
10,000 gal. |
15,000 gal. |
20,000 gal. |
25,000 gal. |
30,000 gal. |
| 10 |
0.8 |
1.25 |
1.6 |
2 |
2.5 |
| 20 |
1.7 |
2.5 |
3.3 |
4 |
5 |
| 30 |
2.6 |
3.75 |
5 |
6.25 |
7.8 |
| 40 |
3.5 |
5 |
6.6 |
8.3 |
11 |
| 50 |
4.4 |
6.25 |
8.3 |
10.5 |
14.5 |
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